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5DINA.Y..S RIO DE JANEIRO TOURISM OFFICE
Flanked by granite peaks, verdant rainforests, white-sand beaches
and seas of the deepest blue, it is no surprise that Rio was awarded
UNESCO World Heritage Status last year. Αn exotic paradise for
the money conscious traveller with an impressive and cosmopolitan vibe.
DAY ONEs soon as the plane lands, before picking up my luggage, I go to the
nearest kiosk and buy a can of Guarana Antarctica, the Brazilian
Asoft drink. A 25-minute taxi ride later (€18-22) and I arrive at
Castelinho38, a quixotic 1866 castle converted into a 10-room hotel that
overlooks Rio from the bohemian Santa Teresa district (castelinho38.
com). After settling in, I take the metro for a long, leisurely stroll along
Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. As the sun sets and rose-tinted clouds
cast shadows on the black and white mosaic promenade, I head back to
Santa Teresa for an early dinner at Bar do Mineiro, a quaint restaurant
bursting with artsy locals that serves delicious homemade food at excellent
prices (Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno 99).
DAY TWO
Iwake up early to avoid the crowds and take the cog train to the summit
of Corcovado to visit Cristo Redentor, the world famous Art Deco statue
watching over the city (votecristo.com). After imbibing the 360 degree
views, I descend through Tijuca Forest, an urban rainforest that features
waterfalls, wildlife and leafy trails. I grab a quick lunch of acai, a kind of
Amazonian berry served with granola or fruit, at BB Lanches, one of the
city’s best juice bars (Rua Aristides Espinola 64A), before continuing with
the 17th century baroque masterpiece Mosteiro de Sao Bento (osb.org.br)
and the impressive National Historical Museum (museuhistoriconacional.
com.br), this is where Rio’s old colonial grandeur comes to life. I dine at
Churrascaria Palace Copacabana, a traditional Brazilian steakhouse perfect
for those on a tighter budget (churrascariapalace.com.br).
DAY THREEfter an invigorating cup of coffee at Largo das Letras café
(largodasletras.com.br), I take the “bonde”, the only working
Ayellow tram, over the celebrated Arcs of Lapa down to Carioca
station. From there, I head to the Jardim Botânico for some air (jbrj.gov.
br). Lunchtime finds me relaxing at Kantha Galo, an exotic-looking kiosk
on the lagoon that serves delicious passion fruit caipirinhas and nibbles
(kanthagalo.com.br). Time for some culture: the Centro Cultural do
Banco do Brazil with exhibition rooms, three theatres, a library, cinema
and video room charges no entrance fee (bb.com.br). I wind down with
a refreshing “chopp” (glass of draught beer) at Jobi, dating back to 1956,
and tuck into the city’s best prawn empanadas (Av. Ataufo de Paiva 1166).
DAY FOURnstead of a favela tour, I wake up at the crack of dawn and take the
bus to Paraty, a quaint coastal town whose beauty lies in its multi-
Icoloured colonial buildings and pristine beaches. I immediately head
to the village Trinidade and Cachadaço beach, where I enjoy a paradisiacal
swim in the pristine waters. I indulge in a hearty moqueca, Brazilian
seafood stew, on the beach before heading back to Paraty where I stroll
around the historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Back in Rio,
for my last night in Lapa, an area where you’ll find the soul of samba
still very much alive; I dance the night away at the authentic Clube dos
Democraticos, which dates from 1867 (clubedosdemocraticos.com.br).
48
Flanked by granite peaks, verdant rainforests, white-sand beaches
and seas of the deepest blue, it is no surprise that Rio was awarded
UNESCO World Heritage Status last year. Αn exotic paradise for
the money conscious traveller with an impressive and cosmopolitan vibe.
DAY ONEs soon as the plane lands, before picking up my luggage, I go to the
nearest kiosk and buy a can of Guarana Antarctica, the Brazilian
Asoft drink. A 25-minute taxi ride later (€18-22) and I arrive at
Castelinho38, a quixotic 1866 castle converted into a 10-room hotel that
overlooks Rio from the bohemian Santa Teresa district (castelinho38.
com). After settling in, I take the metro for a long, leisurely stroll along
Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. As the sun sets and rose-tinted clouds
cast shadows on the black and white mosaic promenade, I head back to
Santa Teresa for an early dinner at Bar do Mineiro, a quaint restaurant
bursting with artsy locals that serves delicious homemade food at excellent
prices (Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno 99).
DAY TWO
Iwake up early to avoid the crowds and take the cog train to the summit
of Corcovado to visit Cristo Redentor, the world famous Art Deco statue
watching over the city (votecristo.com). After imbibing the 360 degree
views, I descend through Tijuca Forest, an urban rainforest that features
waterfalls, wildlife and leafy trails. I grab a quick lunch of acai, a kind of
Amazonian berry served with granola or fruit, at BB Lanches, one of the
city’s best juice bars (Rua Aristides Espinola 64A), before continuing with
the 17th century baroque masterpiece Mosteiro de Sao Bento (osb.org.br)
and the impressive National Historical Museum (museuhistoriconacional.
com.br), this is where Rio’s old colonial grandeur comes to life. I dine at
Churrascaria Palace Copacabana, a traditional Brazilian steakhouse perfect
for those on a tighter budget (churrascariapalace.com.br).
DAY THREEfter an invigorating cup of coffee at Largo das Letras café
(largodasletras.com.br), I take the “bonde”, the only working
Ayellow tram, over the celebrated Arcs of Lapa down to Carioca
station. From there, I head to the Jardim Botânico for some air (jbrj.gov.
br). Lunchtime finds me relaxing at Kantha Galo, an exotic-looking kiosk
on the lagoon that serves delicious passion fruit caipirinhas and nibbles
(kanthagalo.com.br). Time for some culture: the Centro Cultural do
Banco do Brazil with exhibition rooms, three theatres, a library, cinema
and video room charges no entrance fee (bb.com.br). I wind down with
a refreshing “chopp” (glass of draught beer) at Jobi, dating back to 1956,
and tuck into the city’s best prawn empanadas (Av. Ataufo de Paiva 1166).
DAY FOURnstead of a favela tour, I wake up at the crack of dawn and take the
bus to Paraty, a quaint coastal town whose beauty lies in its multi-
Icoloured colonial buildings and pristine beaches. I immediately head
to the village Trinidade and Cachadaço beach, where I enjoy a paradisiacal
swim in the pristine waters. I indulge in a hearty moqueca, Brazilian
seafood stew, on the beach before heading back to Paraty where I stroll
around the historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Back in Rio,
for my last night in Lapa, an area where you’ll find the soul of samba
still very much alive; I dance the night away at the authentic Clube dos
Democraticos, which dates from 1867 (clubedosdemocraticos.com.br).
48
