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P. 64
5 days
in...
T he Enetians might have left their mark on the port of Chora, but the
most impressive landmark has been crafted by nature itself; this Western
province of Crete boasts stunning gorges, mysterious caves, pristine coasts
and a variety of landscapes. Add to these images the celebrated hospitality of the
locals, and you have the perfect ingredients for an unforgettable, five-day escape.
DAY ONE
As soon as I collect my luggage at K. Daskalogiannis airport I rush to rent
a car and follow the signposts towards Kissamos and Kolumbari beach to
reach my desitnation: Chryssana Hotel, a member of Small Luxury Hotels
(cretehotelchania.com). The Libyan Sea draws me southward; I enjoy a
traditional coffee in the main square of Kandanos, a traditional village of
historical value. I continue towards Paleochora and Pachia Ammos beach,
before I head to Anidri village for lunch; the traditional restaurant “Sto
Scolio”, whose patio is shaded by a 300 year-old olive tree is a perfect
choice (christosplace.gr). Evening finds me back in the old port of Cho-
ra and the award-winning Chrysostomos restaurant (+30 28210 57035),
where I enjoy local flavours prepared in a wood-fired oven. I continue
with shots of chilled raki in the nearby café-bars, admiring the lighthouse.
DAY TWO
I cannot wait to swim in exotic Elafonisi, with its white sand and tur-
quoise waters. Yet a wonderful surprise awaits me as I arrive at the la-
goon that separates the protected island from the shore; some sections
of the beach have a dreamy, pinkish tint, an impression created by thou-
sands of crushed seashells. On the way back, I make a stop at the tradi-
tional village of Milia and the Milia Mountain Retreat, where I indulge
in Cretan gastronomy: goat cooked on a bed of vine leaves and pork
cooked with orange (milia.gr). Charmed by the landscape I drive to an-
other mountain village, Theriso, on the foothills of the White Mountains,
before rushing to Drakona Kerameion village in time to enjoy the magi-
cal twilight hours. Located 600 metres above sea level and a traditional
centre of Cretan diet, Dounias bakes its own bread and offers delicious
dishes prepared with organic produce as per the guidelines of the Slow
Food movement (ntounias.gr). Upon my return I opt for a drink at Bar-
raki, one of the most popular hangouts in the old port (Kallergon Street).
DAY THREE
The time has come for my “Faragi Samaria” experience, as locals refer
to the celebrated Samaria Gorge. The bus from Chania stops at the Om-
alos plateau and the group hiking expedition begins at Xyloskalo, at an
altitude of 1227 metres. After the first 600 steps we make a brief stop at
Vrisi for some fresh water and then at the picturesque village of Sama-
ria, before our 12.8-kilometre hike leads us to the seaside village of Ag-
ia Roumeli and we take refreshing dips in the sea (kyriakakis.gr). From
there, we take the boat to Chora Sfakion and feast on a lunch of kaltsou-
nia (cheese pastries), stamnagathi (mountain greens) and lamb cooked in
staka (Cretan roux) at Livikon (sfakia-livikon.com). Back in Chania for
the evening and a stroll around the gorgeous Old Town, where I browse
stores selling knives engraved with mantinades (Cretan limericks) and in-
dulge in a snail dinner at Alatopetra (1 Akti Papanikoli , +30 2821002454).
D A Y FOUR
I leave the car at Kasteli and take the boat to Balos beach, an otherworldly
lagoon that is inundated by thousands of visitors every August; I do not
stay here long because I am anxious to visit the famous beach at Falasar-
64
in...
T he Enetians might have left their mark on the port of Chora, but the
most impressive landmark has been crafted by nature itself; this Western
province of Crete boasts stunning gorges, mysterious caves, pristine coasts
and a variety of landscapes. Add to these images the celebrated hospitality of the
locals, and you have the perfect ingredients for an unforgettable, five-day escape.
DAY ONE
As soon as I collect my luggage at K. Daskalogiannis airport I rush to rent
a car and follow the signposts towards Kissamos and Kolumbari beach to
reach my desitnation: Chryssana Hotel, a member of Small Luxury Hotels
(cretehotelchania.com). The Libyan Sea draws me southward; I enjoy a
traditional coffee in the main square of Kandanos, a traditional village of
historical value. I continue towards Paleochora and Pachia Ammos beach,
before I head to Anidri village for lunch; the traditional restaurant “Sto
Scolio”, whose patio is shaded by a 300 year-old olive tree is a perfect
choice (christosplace.gr). Evening finds me back in the old port of Cho-
ra and the award-winning Chrysostomos restaurant (+30 28210 57035),
where I enjoy local flavours prepared in a wood-fired oven. I continue
with shots of chilled raki in the nearby café-bars, admiring the lighthouse.
DAY TWO
I cannot wait to swim in exotic Elafonisi, with its white sand and tur-
quoise waters. Yet a wonderful surprise awaits me as I arrive at the la-
goon that separates the protected island from the shore; some sections
of the beach have a dreamy, pinkish tint, an impression created by thou-
sands of crushed seashells. On the way back, I make a stop at the tradi-
tional village of Milia and the Milia Mountain Retreat, where I indulge
in Cretan gastronomy: goat cooked on a bed of vine leaves and pork
cooked with orange (milia.gr). Charmed by the landscape I drive to an-
other mountain village, Theriso, on the foothills of the White Mountains,
before rushing to Drakona Kerameion village in time to enjoy the magi-
cal twilight hours. Located 600 metres above sea level and a traditional
centre of Cretan diet, Dounias bakes its own bread and offers delicious
dishes prepared with organic produce as per the guidelines of the Slow
Food movement (ntounias.gr). Upon my return I opt for a drink at Bar-
raki, one of the most popular hangouts in the old port (Kallergon Street).
DAY THREE
The time has come for my “Faragi Samaria” experience, as locals refer
to the celebrated Samaria Gorge. The bus from Chania stops at the Om-
alos plateau and the group hiking expedition begins at Xyloskalo, at an
altitude of 1227 metres. After the first 600 steps we make a brief stop at
Vrisi for some fresh water and then at the picturesque village of Sama-
ria, before our 12.8-kilometre hike leads us to the seaside village of Ag-
ia Roumeli and we take refreshing dips in the sea (kyriakakis.gr). From
there, we take the boat to Chora Sfakion and feast on a lunch of kaltsou-
nia (cheese pastries), stamnagathi (mountain greens) and lamb cooked in
staka (Cretan roux) at Livikon (sfakia-livikon.com). Back in Chania for
the evening and a stroll around the gorgeous Old Town, where I browse
stores selling knives engraved with mantinades (Cretan limericks) and in-
dulge in a snail dinner at Alatopetra (1 Akti Papanikoli , +30 2821002454).
D A Y FOUR
I leave the car at Kasteli and take the boat to Balos beach, an otherworldly
lagoon that is inundated by thousands of visitors every August; I do not
stay here long because I am anxious to visit the famous beach at Falasar-
64
