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Oct-Dec | 12 Latitudes Short breaks
MESSINIA | Μεσσηνία
Ode to nature
Majestic towers, the legend of wise King Nestor, the sacred olive tree
and the teeming birdlife of Gialova lagoon make up the ode to Messinia.
Μεγαλoπρεπείς πύργοι, ο θρύλος του Νέστορα, το ιερό δέντρο και τα πουλιά
της λιμνοθάλασσας συνθέτουν την ωδή στη Μεσσηνία.
The serenity of Messinia’s landscapes give the impression that varino. Even at this time of year it is sheltered from the wind. I gaze in awe
time has stopped for an escape to Never Land. However, the at the island of Sfaktiria which witnessed the first ever surrender of Spartan
Nestor’s Palace makes quickly clear that time has left its own warriors, in 425 BC, and make my way to Voidokilia beach. Its magnificent
deep mark on Messinia. “Wise old” Nestor, as Homer describes horseshoe shape and crystal clear waters gradually come into view. I make a
the king in the Iliad, is believed to have built the palace in the mental note, placing Voidokilia among my favourite summer destinations
early 13th century BC and it perhaps represents the first example of an or- and continue along for another taste of history at the historic Bay of Nav-
ganised agricultural community. Evidence is provided by the clay tablets in- arino, site of the famous naval battle in 1827 that resulted in the crushing
scribed with Linear B script which were found at the entrance and appear defeat of an Ottoman-Egyptian armada.
to have been used as a form of record-keeping, listing goods and payments. Starting out from The Westin Resort at Costa Navarino, where the importance
Returning by the same road, I head eagerly for Gialova lagoon, a remark- of the olive tree for the resort’s underlying philosophy is clearly evident, I visit
able wetland that has been designated as a Natura 2000 protected site. It is the picturesque town of Pylos, where I sip a coffee in the main square before
October and the lagoon is teeming with migratory birds. From the observa- making my way to Neokastro, one of the best preserved fortresses in Greece,
tion post, the lagoon presents an extraordinary sight, as herons and flamin- with a hexagonal shape and six bastions. A 35-minute drive takes me to Me-
gos perform spectacular landings in a watery paradise. To the left, Chrysi Ak- thoni with the battlements reflected in the water below. My brief trip comes
ti is the long beach of fine sand affording a sweeping view of the Bay of Na- to an end as the sun sets behind a grove of olive trees and I head for home.
36
MESSINIA | Μεσσηνία
Ode to nature
Majestic towers, the legend of wise King Nestor, the sacred olive tree
and the teeming birdlife of Gialova lagoon make up the ode to Messinia.
Μεγαλoπρεπείς πύργοι, ο θρύλος του Νέστορα, το ιερό δέντρο και τα πουλιά
της λιμνοθάλασσας συνθέτουν την ωδή στη Μεσσηνία.
The serenity of Messinia’s landscapes give the impression that varino. Even at this time of year it is sheltered from the wind. I gaze in awe
time has stopped for an escape to Never Land. However, the at the island of Sfaktiria which witnessed the first ever surrender of Spartan
Nestor’s Palace makes quickly clear that time has left its own warriors, in 425 BC, and make my way to Voidokilia beach. Its magnificent
deep mark on Messinia. “Wise old” Nestor, as Homer describes horseshoe shape and crystal clear waters gradually come into view. I make a
the king in the Iliad, is believed to have built the palace in the mental note, placing Voidokilia among my favourite summer destinations
early 13th century BC and it perhaps represents the first example of an or- and continue along for another taste of history at the historic Bay of Nav-
ganised agricultural community. Evidence is provided by the clay tablets in- arino, site of the famous naval battle in 1827 that resulted in the crushing
scribed with Linear B script which were found at the entrance and appear defeat of an Ottoman-Egyptian armada.
to have been used as a form of record-keeping, listing goods and payments. Starting out from The Westin Resort at Costa Navarino, where the importance
Returning by the same road, I head eagerly for Gialova lagoon, a remark- of the olive tree for the resort’s underlying philosophy is clearly evident, I visit
able wetland that has been designated as a Natura 2000 protected site. It is the picturesque town of Pylos, where I sip a coffee in the main square before
October and the lagoon is teeming with migratory birds. From the observa- making my way to Neokastro, one of the best preserved fortresses in Greece,
tion post, the lagoon presents an extraordinary sight, as herons and flamin- with a hexagonal shape and six bastions. A 35-minute drive takes me to Me-
gos perform spectacular landings in a watery paradise. To the left, Chrysi Ak- thoni with the battlements reflected in the water below. My brief trip comes
ti is the long beach of fine sand affording a sweeping view of the Bay of Na- to an end as the sun sets behind a grove of olive trees and I head for home.
36
