Page 48 - teyxos_13
P. 48
5dina.y..s
On the southeast coast of France, the port of Marseille buzzes with
life and locals boast of their different provenance, from Algeria
to Morocco and from Italy to France. The magic is of an entirely
different flavour a little to the north, in Lyon, where start-up companies
thrive, history vies with progress and the food is reason alone for visiting.
DAY ONE
I must admit that Marseille was no random choice. For eager as I am to
explore the colourful city, designated European Capital of Culture for 2013,
I am equally anticipating to rest in the new Mama Shelter (mamashelter.
com), which combines creative design, a cosy atmosphere and affordable
prices. After checking in, I treat myself to a Mediterranean power lunch
in the hotel restaurant and then take a short walk to the artsy Cours Julien
district. Once upon a time, I would have bought some vinyl records here;
now I go for a vintage jacket from the Oogie concept store (oogie.eu) and
aromatic Marseille soaps from La Licorne (savon-de-marseille-licorne.
com) before catching the sunset from the terrace of La Caravelle, where the
aperitif ritual is a delight of wine and tapas (lacaravelle-marseille.com).
DAY TWO
After a quick look around the church of Notre-Dame de la Garde, which
dominates the city from its hilltop location, I return to the Old Port.
Since I cannot yet visit the impressive new Museum of Civilisations from
Europe and the Mediterranean (mucem.org), which will be opening any
day now, I go into daydreaming mode as I watch the boats departing for
Corsica, Sardinia, Tunisia, Spain and Algeria. My appetite is never gone
for long and now it’s time for bouillabaisse to the youthful Chez Madie,
right next to the water (chezmadie.idhii.net). The afternoon is devoted
to shopping (or at least window shopping) at the elegant stores on Rue
Paradis, while the end of my day is equally classy at Café Populaire.
DAY THREE
I take the boat from the Old Port, mainly to be nearer the sea, and find
myself in the city’s oldest quarter, Le Panier. Here, time seems to have
stood still, in sun-baked alleyways and shops selling santons, the traditional
terracotta figurines from Provence. I arrive early at the unique fishmonger/
restaurant La Boîte a Sardine to catch a table (laboriteasardine.com) and
order a seafood platter. Designed by Le Corbusier, the emblematic Unité
d’Habitation, also known as Cité radieuse (radiant city) is a must visit.
This 17-storey ‘vertical village’ was built between 1945 and 1952. I take my
last look at the port relaxing at the Bar de la Marine with its eye-catching
blue facade having a bag full of bottles of pastis from La Maison du Pastis
(lamaisondupastis.com) next to me.
DAY FOUR
After about two hours with the train, I arrive at Lyon. Instead of the brand
new Mama Shelter Lyon, I stay at the school-themed Le College hotel,
featuring original classroom-style furniture and a magnificent 1930s
facade. At last it is time for a museum visit, to the Musée des Beaux-Arts
(mba-lyon.fr), one of the largest in Europe, with over 70 rooms displaying
works of art from antiquity to the present. I then set off to ascertain how
justified Lyon’s reputation is as the French capital of gastronomy. At the
restaurant Au 14 Fevrier (au14fevrier.com), my first culinary experience
may not be traditional but it is certainly impressive, as I savour dishes
that combine elements of French and Japanese cuisine under a ceiling
lined with mirrors.
48
On the southeast coast of France, the port of Marseille buzzes with
life and locals boast of their different provenance, from Algeria
to Morocco and from Italy to France. The magic is of an entirely
different flavour a little to the north, in Lyon, where start-up companies
thrive, history vies with progress and the food is reason alone for visiting.
DAY ONE
I must admit that Marseille was no random choice. For eager as I am to
explore the colourful city, designated European Capital of Culture for 2013,
I am equally anticipating to rest in the new Mama Shelter (mamashelter.
com), which combines creative design, a cosy atmosphere and affordable
prices. After checking in, I treat myself to a Mediterranean power lunch
in the hotel restaurant and then take a short walk to the artsy Cours Julien
district. Once upon a time, I would have bought some vinyl records here;
now I go for a vintage jacket from the Oogie concept store (oogie.eu) and
aromatic Marseille soaps from La Licorne (savon-de-marseille-licorne.
com) before catching the sunset from the terrace of La Caravelle, where the
aperitif ritual is a delight of wine and tapas (lacaravelle-marseille.com).
DAY TWO
After a quick look around the church of Notre-Dame de la Garde, which
dominates the city from its hilltop location, I return to the Old Port.
Since I cannot yet visit the impressive new Museum of Civilisations from
Europe and the Mediterranean (mucem.org), which will be opening any
day now, I go into daydreaming mode as I watch the boats departing for
Corsica, Sardinia, Tunisia, Spain and Algeria. My appetite is never gone
for long and now it’s time for bouillabaisse to the youthful Chez Madie,
right next to the water (chezmadie.idhii.net). The afternoon is devoted
to shopping (or at least window shopping) at the elegant stores on Rue
Paradis, while the end of my day is equally classy at Café Populaire.
DAY THREE
I take the boat from the Old Port, mainly to be nearer the sea, and find
myself in the city’s oldest quarter, Le Panier. Here, time seems to have
stood still, in sun-baked alleyways and shops selling santons, the traditional
terracotta figurines from Provence. I arrive early at the unique fishmonger/
restaurant La Boîte a Sardine to catch a table (laboriteasardine.com) and
order a seafood platter. Designed by Le Corbusier, the emblematic Unité
d’Habitation, also known as Cité radieuse (radiant city) is a must visit.
This 17-storey ‘vertical village’ was built between 1945 and 1952. I take my
last look at the port relaxing at the Bar de la Marine with its eye-catching
blue facade having a bag full of bottles of pastis from La Maison du Pastis
(lamaisondupastis.com) next to me.
DAY FOUR
After about two hours with the train, I arrive at Lyon. Instead of the brand
new Mama Shelter Lyon, I stay at the school-themed Le College hotel,
featuring original classroom-style furniture and a magnificent 1930s
facade. At last it is time for a museum visit, to the Musée des Beaux-Arts
(mba-lyon.fr), one of the largest in Europe, with over 70 rooms displaying
works of art from antiquity to the present. I then set off to ascertain how
justified Lyon’s reputation is as the French capital of gastronomy. At the
restaurant Au 14 Fevrier (au14fevrier.com), my first culinary experience
may not be traditional but it is certainly impressive, as I savour dishes
that combine elements of French and Japanese cuisine under a ceiling
lined with mirrors.
48
