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I n search of a quick escape from the city, I drive to Rafina and hop Ochi, and I start making plans. Over the next two days I intend to visit the
on the boat to Marmari. From the deck I gaze at Petali, a group of
islands recently included in one of the world’s top 10 sailing cruis- famous Dragon House, high on the mountain peak, one of the oldest and
es by National Geographic. An hour passed without me realising
and soon enough, a throng of locals and tourists disembark and mysterious places of worship in Greece, the Dimosari Canyon that leads
flood into Marmari, a picturesque fishing village that seems to have come
from a bygone era. to Kaliani beach, and of course, the winery and vineyards of the Montofoli
I am in no hurry to get to Karystos. In the wonderful Folklore House,
the ladies of the Marmari Women’s Association greet me with homemade Estate. For the moment I enjoy a stroll around the town; designed by the
spoon sweets and liqueur. Since I have a 15-minute drive ahead before
reaching my destination, I resist the temptation of stopping for an ouzo Bavarian architect Birbach at the request of King Otto, Karystos boasts el-
at Zygos, also known as Maria’s taverna by the locals, and instead opt for
an aromatic cup of Greek coffee at Kolobari, a traditional café. I stock egant neo-classical buildings built by prosperous merchants and sailors in
up on traditional pasteli, a bar made with honey and sesame seeds, and
continue my journey to Karystos, the town that bears the same name as the early 20th century, the Enetian fortress of Bourtzi and the Castello Ros-
the son of the Chiron, the centaur.
After a 15-minute drive Karystos appears, sprawling down the sides of Mount so built by the Franks, which infuse the town with the lustre of a bygone

era and transform a simple walk into a unique experience.

For dinner, I do as the locals, head to a traditional taverna and order the

local specialty, kourkoubines, a type of handmade pasta served with roost-

er. I accompany my food with the tsipouro the locals offer me while they

enthusiastically bring me up to date with their greatest news: Karystos is

hosting the first International Music Festival in June. Feeling dizzy from

the tsipouro, I find myself mentally planning my return even though I

have only just arrived! EVA ANIFANTI

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