Page 21 - Ath Airport Profile
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WHITE Greece,
in contrast to
the Gstaad and
Mykonos frenzy,
remains modest
and ideal for
those who don’t
count their euros

clockwise from top L: Courtesy of SEMANTRON HOTEL. Nikos Daniilidis, Vangelis Efthymiou (2) winter haunts. I’ve never stayed there since I always on Mount Parnassus, I head to other prefectures due in Mykonos. The rest of the year, when the islands
opt for Delphi, but I never fail to stop for a coffee or north. Vassilitsa in Grevena and Falakro in Drama are grow colder, the Mykonos philosophy waits at the
lunch in this fine chalet. If I was following my city two must-visit destinations, ideally suited for ski lovers foot of Kaimaktsalan: You’ll have a great time; you’ll
exercise regime, I would also swim at the resort’s since the pistes are impressive and more frequently eat better than in Mykonos; you’ll want to come
fabulous heated swimming pool overlooking the snowy than those at Parnassus. Weather permitting, back, but it won’t be cheap. That’s why checking the
snow. Being on a mountain though, I prefer hiking hiking from the villages of Zagoria in Epirus towards deluxe hotel websites, like Chalet Sapin’s, will get
to swimming, followed by reading in one of Elatos’ Mount Tymphi’s highest peaks, Gkamila, Gkoura and you lots of information about the décor, hospitality
cosy armchairs—something Thomas Mann would Astraka (some 2.5km high), is probably one of the and fabulous French country-chic rooms, but will
have cherished. most powerful experiences of white Greece. get nowhere regarding the price for a double room
As 4pm approaches the first pains of hunger set in, If I don’t want to travel that far north, I turn by the during Christmas. It’s best to call for information.
displacing any poetic tendencies and signalling the town of Lamia and ascend Bralos along a 20km- No problem if that leaves you speechless, as the
much-awaited visit to Staikos’ taverna: my favourite long, breathtaking hairpin road that adds to the chalet is fully booked anyway.
eatery on the slope between Elatos and Arachova. It’s adventure. It’s no secret that Euro-Greece has become one of
quite late; the satiated crowds have already made their Among the mountains of Vardousia, Gkiona and Oete, the most expensive countries in Europe, maybe in
way to the Arachova coffee shops, so the taverna is I stop at Athanassios Diakos, a picturesque village the whole world. Quite an unexpected first. Greeks
quiet and ready for the lonely traveller. I always start that has retained intact its traditional quaintness, don’t know whether to cry or laugh about it. A
with some haloumi cheese and homemade wine, and contrary to, for example, Arachova, which nowadays dish of meat with rosemary at a refined mountain
continue with a pie, salad and lamb chops. is more reminiscent of a northern Athenian suburb village bistro may cost even more than the chef’s
As the lamb chops arrive, I console myself that than a mountain village. “Kastanies” guesthouse duck specialty at Le Cirque in Manhattan.
calories don’t matter, but what matters is the in Diakos is probably one of the nicest hotels of Truth be told though, white Greece, in contrast to
satisfaction of the senses—and the delicious flavour its kind. The Vardousia Mountains are among the seaside Greece which takes tourism as a given, has
of Staikos’ lamb chops is as majestic as the views tallest in Greece, with their highest peak at 12.5km embarked on a concerted effort to attract wealthy
of Itea from my Delphi room at sunrise. So I dig high called “Korakas” (raven) by the locals, a name tourists to a predominantly summertime country.
in guilt free. Athenians are attracted to this magic haunting the place from past times. Near Korakas, That’s maybe the reason why service, food quality
mountain like bees to honey, and truth be told, all at Pitmaliko, there’s a well-equipped mountain and hotel amenities are superior. Of course, the
senses feel honeyed up, leading to a climax. Just refuge that becomes immersed in Antarctica-style chalets in Gstaad are more glamorous, and you
not on a Sunday. solitude during winter. might ski into Gwyneth Paltrow on some Swiss
Music is very important. That’s why many times I However, one of my favourite spots in northern piste, but there you’ll also bump into many gaudy
prefer to undertake my pilgrimage through snowy Greece is still Aghios Athanassios, a settlement in nouveau riche flaunting their winter bling.
Greece on my own. Driving with music is part of the Edessa. It’s the closest village to the Kaimaktsalan Nevertheless, white Greece, in contrast to the Gstaad
pleasure. Chatting with friends in the car fazes me, ski centre and prides itself as being the most and Mykonos frenzy, remains modest, relatively
takes me back to urban living, distracts my focus cosmopolitan and stylish spot in white Greece. A unknown and ideal for those who don’t count their
from what I came here to feel: a white time vacuum host of winter culinary paradises and stylish hotels euros, and can visit during winter’s off-peak seasons.
in the heights of imagination. But with Mendelssohn are gathered in Aghios Athanassios— spots that If you’ve never tried it, you can opt for a dress
or Handel in the background, or even the new cover even the prestigious Athenian quarter of Kolonaki rehearsal on Parnitha Mountain. You don’t have to
of Ne Me Quitte Pas from Streisand’s new jazzy would envy. like gambling to check out the renovated Mont Parnes
album, travelling acquires an almost cinematographic One example is Chalet Sapin, offering almost everything Casino. Isn’t that where our Athenian parents took
dimension. that any high-end chalet in Austria or Switzerland us to enjoy the snow when we were kids? It remains
The good thing with Greece is that, above all, it is would. Prices, I noticed, are low only from May the stereotypical “gate” to “winter” Greece, given,
geographically compact, so you can drive everywhere. to September, the period when urban escapees are of course, that the increasingly infrequent miracle
When I have some time to spare after a couple of days charged 500 to 600 euros a night for a double room takes place on Parnitha: that it snows!

Clockwise from left: gourmet dish at the Semantron hotel’s restaurant - Vasilitsa from above - On the way to Gamila, the country’s highest top, of 2,497
metres - Firs at Parnitha. | Από αριστερά δεξιόστροφα: Γκουρμέ πιάτο στο εστιατόριο του Sematnron Hotel, στα Καλάβρυτα - Η χιονισμένη Βασιλίτσα από ψηλά
- Ανεβαίνοντας στην Γκαμήλα, την έκτη ψηλότερη κορφή της χώρας, με υψόμετρο 2.497 μ. - Έλατα στην Πάρνηθα

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